Odor Medicine O.F Instructions
Thank you for purchasing our odor elimination product for organic odors. There is nothing better for permanently eliminating odor caused by cat and dog urine. It is effective for a very broad spectrum of organic odors including mold and mildew. It is very important to remember that the process of treating specific types of problems is just as important as the product. So, in order to successfully eliminate your odor problem please do not hesitate to call us. We will call you back on our dime and spend as much time as necessary to help you. We also check email each hour, so you can email us your phone number and we will call you back ASAP.
Our Guarantee is based on you consulting with us if you have a severe problem or are not getting the results you want. If you are a first time customer and ordered a gallon of O.F. we should be talking and planning together from the beginning. If you ordered a pint or a quart and have used it up and the odor is not totally gone, chances are you need to treat it again or the treatment process needs to be modified. Please remember that the key to success is to get the correct amount of O.F. applied in the right places using the correct process. If there are 5 oz. of cat urine in a carpet we need to get 5 oz. of O.F. mixture in direct contact with it following the instructions step by step.
How to Mix
Over the years we have refined our use of O.F. and below are recommended mixtures optimized for pet urine problems but effective for most odor sources. Fill a one gallon jug with water leaving more than enough room to enable the addition of the amount of O.F. Concentrate you select. Then add the O.F Concentrate, top off with water and mix well. Gallon containers are designed to allow 3-4 inches of air space at the top, so do not fill completely.
1. If applying directly to an animal for skunk, body, fecal odor, etc. use 2 oz/gallon
2. Light contamination: Your cat only went a few times on your carpet and the stain on the back of the carpet is barely visible or light brown, or the surface is hardwood or tile and you have been able to clean up most of the urine, use 4-6 oz/gallon
3. Medium/heavy contamination: The stain on the back of the carpet is clearly defined and a medium to dark shade of brown, use 8 oz (1 cup)/gallon. This is the amount we use about 90% of the time for most problems on porous surfaces such as dirt, concrete, plywood, upholstery, etc.
Use lukewarm or cold tap water. If unsure how much O.F. Concentrate to use, add 8 oz/gal, or call us to discuss your situation. O.F. must be mixed with water to be effective. The key to success is to apply enough solution in the right places. It is not unusual to have to treat some areas multiple times. If you aren't getting the results you want, treat the area again, after it has dried completely, and consider using more O.F. Concentrate in the mixture.
General Instructions-Required Reading
Your first challenge is to find all the contamination and this usually requires using a combination of your nose and a black light. One of the best ways to find exactly where a pet has urinated is to buy a black light and not all black lights will work. We have found fluorescent to be superior to incandescent. Wal-Mart sells one that is about 18 inches long and has a fluorescent tube in a black housing for about $20. Or, if your Wal-mart doesn’t have the complete unit you can buy the tube separately and purchase an under-the-counter fixture that the tube fits in. These are also available on Amazon. Pet stores generally want over $30 for a much smaller light that doesn't work as well. Pet urine will show up as a yellow stain under the black light on most surfaces. All pet urine has a very low surface tension, which means that it penetrates deep into every miniscule pore of whatever surface or material you are treating. O.F. is designed to penetrate exactly the same and we recommend that you use a common pump-up sprayer that is available at any hardware store to apply our products. This allows you to apply it efficiently and to be able to inject it under pressure behind walls and other areas that are not easily accessed. You will find that cats will urinate on furniture, beds, just about anywhere, but in most cases all the contamination will be within 3 feet of the walls or whatever vertical surface is close to the wall…..like a dresser or a bookcase. Dogs on the other hand generally urinate at random all over the place. Below are specific instructions for all of the common pet urine problems.
Cat Urine in Carpet: Because cat urine has a very low surface tension it penetrates deeply into the carpet, the pad, and the floor if enough is deposited. Any average size cat will put out enough urine to penetrate deep into the carpet backing. Therefore, simply spraying any odor-eliminating product on the top of the carpet will not work. Here is a summary of the process we use. Please read it completely, and note what you will have to borrow or buy to do the job correctly. It is important to pay attention to the details of this process.
1. Cats always go around the perimeter of the room or up against furniture. The black light will help you find the spots, but the best way is to just pull up the edges of the carpet. Start in a corner with a small hook or pliers, and gently pull up the corner, after you have it started put your hand under the edge of the carpet and pull straight up (not out) so it releases from the tack strip.
2. Once the carpet is loose, fold it back and you will be able to clearly see the extent of the contamination. Rusty and darkened tack strip is also a sure sign of cat urine. Draw a line with a permanent marker around the contaminated areas on the back of the carpet, the pad and the subfloor. As urine is deposited the spots get darker until they can turn black. If the carpet is coming apart, please call us.
3. Cut the pad out and if the tack strip is rusty but not dark brown or black, it can usually be successfully treated by soaking it once or twice and then painting it with an oil-based sealer like Kilz. If it looks bad, remove it (a hammer and a small lever called a Wonder Bar makes removing tack strip easy). If your subfloor is concrete, you will need a hammer drill to install new tack strip by drilling a holes and screwing down the tack strip. Carpet pad acts like a sponge and can hold an unbelievable amount of urine, so it isn’t economically feasible to treat it.
4. Now comes the important part. If your carpet or subfloor has dark brown or black stains on it, please call us to discuss the color and the extent of the problem. We can advise you if your carpet can be saved and if you might need to replace some subfloor. If you decide to replace the carpet you still need to treat the floor, molding, etc as described below in step 7. To begin the process the next step is to clear a large enough space so you can fold the carpet back far enough so that all the spots are exposed and flat on the floor. Now you must rinse as much urine out of the carpet as possible. The way we do it is to place a large shallow container under the folded back carpet (the backing of the carpet now facing up). We use the plastic lid of a large storage container that is about 2x3 feet and has an indentation in it. You can also use plastic sheeting with something like a piece of garden hose or 2x2’s under the edges of the plastic to form a shallow pool that can be filled with water. Depending on the size of the area, you may want to do this in 2 ft x 2 ft. sections.
5. Once you have decided how to contain the water, you should then pour hot tap water (not boiling...just normal hot temperature out of the tap) into the pool. Don’t fill it up completely because when you lay the carpet down it will overflow. Now lay the carpet lightly into the pool and begin the extraction process with a wet/dry vacuum like a Shop-Vac. Carpet cleaners are not effective because they do not have enough suction. Begin sucking water completely through the carpet. As you do so you will see the stain on the back begin to disappear. You may have to refill the container several times and repeat the extraction process in order to eliminate most of the stain.
6. After you have rinsed out as much urine as possible and the carpet is now damp, saturate the carpet with the mixed O.F. solution. At this point, either the “pool” is still under the carpet OR if treating multiple spots you can put a sheet of plastic under the carpet to contain the O.F. Solution. This will allow you to move on to extract another spot while this one is soaking. I like to cut the plastic sheet so that it extends about 10 inches past the edge of the carpet and then I fold it back over the carpet to help contain the O.F. solution. Apply the mixed O.F. solution onto the carpet backing (Use a pump up garden sprayer or a common garden sprinkler can) and put enough on to thoroughly soak through and saturate the fibers. If using plastic, fold the extra 10” back over the soaked edge and put on some old shoes and do a “grape crushing dance” on the carpet so that the O.F. solution foams up. This is very important because it insures that the O.F. Solution gets worked through every fiber of the carpet. Leave this for at least 20 minutes and then extract as much as possible using the vacuum to get the carpet as dry as possible. Extract from the backing side, then flop the carpet back and extract any remaining from the fiber side.
7. Fold the carpet back to expose the sub floor and treat the floor edges up against the wall and molding. Apply enough mixture to the floor so it runs back under the wall and forms a pool along the wall. Treat out as far as the contamination extends, and be sure to pour or spray it about a foot up on the wall so it runs down behind any loose molding. If you are using a pump up sprayer, run the wand tip along the bottom of the wall to inject it under the wall. After a few minutes wipe the molding and wall down with a dry rag to remove any urine from the vertical surfaces.
8. Now it is very important to place wood, paint cans, plastic containers, etc. under the carpet to hold it above the floor so air can get at both sides. Make sure that the area where the wet carpet meets the dry, untreated carpet is up in the air. Any part of the carpet that does not dry in about 24 hours will develop a different bad smell that will require more treatment. Do whatever is necessary to keep the cats from revisiting the area while it is drying. Empty clothing baskets placed over the area work great. They allow airflow and keep the cats off. Make sure the carpet dries completely in 24 hours. You may use a fan to speed the drying if necessary.
9. After this treatment, there could still be some odor in the carpet, especially around the very edges where it is more difficult to extract. Check all areas with your nose, including perimeter of the floor. Retreat any areas that still have odor. If you did a good job rinsing, you can usually eliminate any remaining odor by repeating Step 6 above.
10. When all the odor is gone, put down new tack strip and pad. Then lay the carpet back down. 99.9% of the time the carpet will lay right back in place. In some cases, a knee kicker is all that is needed to complete the job. You probably think you are done…not so!! If the culprits are still around, you should cover all treated areas with plastic for a few weeks to ensure that they do not go back to their old habits. If you still have odor, it is possible that the urine has run down under the sub floor. If that is the case you may have to replace wood. If you have particleboard on top of plywood, and the particleboard is soaked with urine, replace the particleboard and treat the surrounding sub floor. You can also seal in any last vestiges of odor by painting the offending area with oil based Kilz paint. Only paint after you have treated the area, or the gas will eventually work back through the paint, especially in areas where there is traffic that breaks down the paint. If you are having trouble eliminating 100% of the odor, please call us!
Dog Urine in Carpet: Dog urine is treated in exactly the same way as cat urine, but there are a couple of considerations. While cats always go along the wall (or furniture) dogs will go at random….everywhere. This is good and bad. Cats keep going in the same place, so it really gets concentrated. Dogs don’t generally go over and over in the same place, but they usually put out a much larger volume of urine than cats. However, if your problem is caused by a small dog less than 7 pounds, you may be able to treat the problem by saturating each spot with just enough O.F. solution so that the carpet fiber and backing get saturated, but the pad does not get wet. Let this soak for about 30 minutes and then extract as much of the O.F. solution as possible with a shop-vac, and then let it dry naturally. You may have to do this a couple of times for some spots, but if the dog urine has not penetrated into the pad, this method will save you a LOT of work.
Cat or Dog Urine on Hardwood, Concrete, Linoleum or Tile: (Remember….cats always urinate around the perimeter of a room and dogs go anywhere) This is generally a much easier problem to solve. Spray the mixture on the surface making sure to apply enough so it runs into any cracks. If treating hardwood, linoleum, or tile, after about 20 minutes, soak or mop up the excess. Repeat if necessary in any spots that still smell. We have had one or two cases where the floor was so heavily contaminated that some of the floor had to be removed to treat the structure underneath. If treating concrete, just spray a heavy coat on, let it dry COMPLETELY and treat again if any odor remains. Concrete is very porous so it may take a couple of treatments. If there are vestiges of odor left after two treatments it is O.K. to paint the area with an oil-based paint like Kilz or Bin that is designed to seal in stains or odors. However, DO NOT paint over untreated urine as you will only seal in the source and prevent any treatment from being effective. In summary, if there is an ounce of dog or cat urine and you get an ounce of the mixture in direct contact with it….the odor will be eliminated forever. The trick is to get enough of the mixture into the right places.
Urine in Upholstered Furniture: Use your nose or a black light to locate the affected areas. If you can take the covers off the cushions, do it and wash them with a cup of the CONCENTRATE added to a small or medium load. If the stuffing is heavily soaked, it may be better to replace the stuffing, if possible. If you can’t remove the covers, just saturate the area with the mixture. Work it into the stuffing and let it soak for about 20 minutes. Then, if possible, extract as much as you can with a Shop-vac. Let it dry for about 2 days and then evaluate the results. If you still have odor repeat this process and you may try injecting the O.F. into the stuffing with a turkey baster needle that you can purchase at a grocery store. Think about where the urine would run, and try to get the mixture to the same areas. You should turn the piece over and check the underside. This may involve removing the thin, usually black cloth that is generally stapled to the bottom. Treat any suspect areas. You can use a small pump up garden sprayer or just a spray bottle to treat furniture. We have never had any problems with the mixture staining furniture, carpet, or anything we have used it on. However, we can’t promise that it may not happen. If it does darken a piece of your furniture, one remedy may be to just spray the whole piece so it all looks the same.
Mold & Mildew: Treating mold and mildew is usually simply a matter of spraying enough of the mixture directly on the area, and repeating the treatment until the odor is gone. If it is upholstered furniture start by treating any surface areas that are obviously contaminated, making sure that you take off the thin covering on the bottom of the piece and check the frame and springs. If this doesn't eliminate the odor, then you must try to treat any area where the contamination occurs in the stuffing. This may involve saturating an area and then extracting it with a shop-vac. Removing cushion covers is also a good idea to help find contamination that may be hidden.
Dead Animals & Rotten Food: Odor Medicine O.F. will eliminate the odor left by dead animals or rotten food in a refrigerator or freezer. With dead animals the tricky part is usually finding and removing the carcass. If it is a dead animal in the wall, you need to open up the wall and find the carcass. Where there is one, there is often many, such as a nest of mice. Just remove the remains and heavily spray the area. Rotten food in a freezer or fridge must be removed and the inside sprayed and wiped down with a cloth or sponge. Also if any of the juice has run out of the compartment into the seals and under the appliance, make sure to treat those areas also.
Athletic Equipment & Shoes: Soak them well and then wash them if possible.
Skunk Odor: Odor Medicine O.F. is very effective for skunk odor. If you dog has tangled with one, just spray wet him down with the mixture and try to work it into his coat. Once the odor is gone, wash him down with a hose or throw him in a tub. The mixture is very safe, but it is best to keep any chemical out of eyes, ears and noses.
Other Organic Odors: Please call us if you have questions about other organic based odors.
Litter Boxes: Spraying fresh litter with O.F. solution will help minimize the odor as deposits occur. The most effective treatment is to remove the deposit and then spray the litter to eliminate any residual odor, and you can also mist it into the air to eliminate any odor in the area. If you have a box that automatically sweeps the deposit into a container, pour some O.F. solution into the container if possible so it contacts the deposit immediately. From time to time also spray the floor surrounding the box to eliminate odor from missing the box or litter that gets tracked out of the box. Don’t be afraid to apply a heavy application to the litter as it is safe to use around animals.
Contact Odor Medic at 612.270.2953 or email@example.com
If O.F. comes in contact with eyes, flush with water. O.F has a neutral PH and is classified as non-hazardous.